Skip fretting system 53 3 14: Difference between revisions
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A good way to play 53-edo on a 17.66-edo guitar (effectively 28edt, or an 18edo guitar with the intonation on the [[Moving_the_bridge_hack|bridge shifted forwards]] so the third harmonic and the 28th fret sound the same note.) is to tune each pair of adjacent strings 14\ | A good way to play 53-edo on a 17.66-edo guitar (effectively [[28edt]], or an [[18edo]] guitar with the intonation on the [[Moving_the_bridge_hack|bridge shifted forwards]] so the third harmonic and the 28th fret sound the same note.) is to tune each pair of adjacent strings 14\53 apart. (That's 317 cents, a bit sharp of [[6/5]].) This is probably best accomplished by ear via fretting a string at the 13th fret and then tuning it to an octave above the one below. | ||
Among the possible [[skip fretting]] systems for 53-edo, the (53,3,14) system is especially effective because every ratio in the 2.3.5.13 subgroup can be reached with a stretch of 4 frets or less. Conveniently, this is also the subgroup 53edo is best tuned in, with less than 3 cents error, audibly indistinguishable from just intonation, making the most in tune harmonies also the easiest to play. For this reason, it could also be called a [[Kleismic_family#Catakleismic| | Among the possible [[skip fretting]] systems for 53-edo, the (53,3,14) system is especially effective because every ratio in the 2.3.5.13 subgroup can be reached with a stretch of 4 frets or less. Conveniently, this is also the subgroup 53edo is best tuned in, with less than 3 cents error, audibly indistinguishable from just intonation, making the most in tune harmonies also the easiest to play. For this reason, it could also be called a [[Kleismic_family#Catakleismic|catakleismic]] guitar, as it's optimised for playing music in that temperament. | ||