How to make a Kite Guitar: Difference between revisions

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=== Converting an existing guitar vs. building a new one ===

Converting is far more affordable than building, and ~~will be~~ the focus ~~of this section~~. If building, ~~the~~ only ~~difference is~~ the location of the frets ~~and~~ the string gauges~~. The~~ process for intonating the saddle points ~~also differs.~~

Converting is far more affordable than building, and is the main focus here. If building, there are only a few differences from building a standard guitar:

* the location of the frets

* the number of strings

* the string gauges

* the process for intonating the saddle points

=== Even-frets vs. odd-frets ===

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Line 32:

Assuming one is not using an open tuning, a Kite guitar with 6 strings is a little limiting. 7 strings or even 8 is better. Arguably a slightly longer scale, say 26.5-27", is nice because it makes the frets less cramped. Fortunately 7- and 8-string electric guitars often have longer scales anyway. But on the other hand, the Kite guitar's frets are not much tighter than a normal mandolin's, and some feel a longer scale isn't necessary.

While 7- and 8-string electric guitars are plentiful, acoustic ones are rarer. (See [[Extended range guitar]].) One way to get one is to convert a 12-string guitar. The neck will be sufficiently strong and there will be enough tuners. There's fewer strings but more courses, so the string spacing can be very tight. To avoid this, the new fretboard can be wider than the old one. The fretboard overhang can be filled with bondo to create a nice-feeling neck.

While 7- and 8-string electric guitars are plentiful, acoustic ones are rarer. (See [[Extended range guitar]].) One way to get one is to convert a 12-string guitar. The neck will be sufficiently strong and there will be enough [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuners]] (aka tuning machines or machine heads). On the bridge, fill in all but the outer two pin holes. Then measure the distance between these two holes, divide by 6, and draw 5 new lines. (For an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 new lines.) Drill new pin holes accordingly. There's fewer strings but more courses, so the string spacing can be very tight. To avoid this, the new fretboard can be wider than the old one. The fretboard overhang can be filled with bondo to create a nice-feeling neck.

Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8 strings. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. If not, again the new fretboard can be slightly wider. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar.

To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a banjo tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. Use the type of banjo tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through.

There will need to be new holes in the tie block. They might need to be drilled at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's often possible to go straight in with a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]

On the tie block, divide the distance between the outer holes by 6 and draw 5 lines for your 5 new holes (or for an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 lines). Fill the inner 4 holes with toothpicks. You can thin the toothpick down by putting it in a drill press (or even a hand drill) where the bit would go. Then run a bit of sandpaper against it as it spins. Squirt some runny superglue on it and shove it into the hole. Cut off the excess with a razor blade. Squirt a bit more superglue onto the exposed end.

To help get the precise angle and spacing, make a guide block out of a hard material like maple wood or [https://www.delrinplastics.net/ delrin]. Use a drill press to drill a 1/16" hole in it that is at the right height and angle. Draw a guide line on the top for aligning.

~~Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8~~ strings~~. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. If not~~, ~~again the new fretboard~~ can ~~be slightly wider. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar. There will need~~ to ~~be an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] (aka tuning machine~~ or ~~machine head). The~~ 3 holes ~~on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled~~ and ~~4 new holes drilled~~. ~~Or a banjo tuner~~ or two ~~can be added~~ at the top of the headstock. Use the type of banjo tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). Use one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through.

If you don't like tying knots when you change strings, you can take this opportunity to drill 2 or even 3 holes per string. Look up "12-hole tie block" and "18-hole tie block" for details. Drill an extra hole or two into your guide block at the proper distance.

~~There will need to be new holes in~~ the tie block~~. They can be drilled at an angle, entering from near~~ the ~~upper edge~~ of the ~~back~~ of the tie block. To ~~help get~~ the ~~precise angle~~ and ~~spacing, one can make~~ a guide block ~~out of~~ a ~~hard wood like maple~~. ~~This~~ block ~~will have holes drilled into it that line up with where~~ the ~~new~~ holes ~~will be~~.

Position the block right up against the tie block and use the guide line to align it with one of the lines you drew on the top of the tie block. Use two-sided tape on the bottom of the block to hold it in place. To protect the face of the guitar, take a thin metal plate and cover the edges with tape. Then tape it to the guitar face.

[[File:Getting ready to drill string holes.jpg|none|thumb|ready to drill]]

Drill the hole or holes for this string. Use a 1/16" drill bit mounted into the bit extension. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html]. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.

Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider ~~or narrower~~ than the old one, one has a lot of control over the string spacing.

The nut will need to be replaced. This is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.

===Nut width===

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Line 120:

By far the largest expense of a conversion is the fretwork. For a cheap conversion, one can defret a guitar, fill the old fret slots with wood filler, and then create new frets without using fretwire.

To remove the frets, use a pair of end nippers. You may need to grind away the front a bit so that the cutting edge is at the absolute front of the pliers. First use a soldering iron or an ordinary laundry iron to heat the fret, to weaken the glue. Touch the fret as you do this, to monitor the temperature. Too much heat will burn the fretboard. Then pull up the fret with the nippers, ~~starting~~ at one end of the fret and ~~working~~ your way to the other end.

To remove the frets, use a pair of end nippers. You may need to grind away the front a bit so that the cutting edge is at the absolute front of the pliers. First use a soldering iron or an ordinary laundry iron to heat the fret, to weaken the glue. Touch the fret as you do this, to monitor the temperature. Too much heat will burn the fretboard. Then pull up the fret with the nippers, getting the cutting edges underneath the top of the fret. Start at one end of the fret and work your way to the other end.

There are several materials that can substitute for fretwire, all metal except for the last:

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Line 230:

==String Spacing==

With 7 or 8 strings, it's important to avoid both a too-wide neck and a too-tight string spacing. Every millimeter counts. One can reduce neck width by minimizing the distance from the outer string to the edge of the fretboard. To do this, minimize the amount of rounding of the edge of the fretboard. And preserve as much usable fret length as possible by beveling the ends of the frets at a steeper angle and not over-rounding the ~~corner~~ of the fret where the top and the end meet.

With 7 or 8 strings, it's important to avoid both a too-wide neck and a too-tight string spacing. Every millimeter counts. One can reduce neck width by minimizing the distance from the outer string to the edge of the fretboard. To do this, minimize the amount of rounding of the edge of the fretboard. And preserve as much usable fret length as possible by beveling the ends of the frets at a steeper angle and not over-rounding the shoulder of the fret where the top and the end meet.

The spacing can be slightly improved further as follows:

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 === Converting an existing guitar vs. building a new one ===
-Converting is far more affordable than building, and will be the focus of this section. If building, the only difference is the location of the frets and the string gauges. The process for intonating the saddle points also differs.
+Converting is far more affordable than building, and is the main focus here. If building, there are only a few differences from building a standard guitar:
+* the location of the frets
+* the number of strings
+* the string gauges
+* the process for intonating the saddle points
 === Even-frets vs. odd-frets ===
@@ Line 27: / Line 32: @@
 Assuming one is not using an open tuning, a Kite guitar with 6 strings is a little limiting. 7 strings or even 8 is better. Arguably a slightly longer scale, say 26.5-27", is nice because it makes the frets less cramped. Fortunately 7- and 8-string electric guitars often have longer scales anyway. But on the other hand, the Kite guitar's frets are not much tighter than a normal mandolin's, and some feel a longer scale isn't necessary.
-While 7- and 8-string electric guitars are plentiful, acoustic ones are rarer. (See [[Extended range guitar]].) One way to get one is to convert a 12-string guitar. The neck will be sufficiently strong and there will be enough tuners. There's fewer strings but more courses, so the string spacing can be very tight. To avoid this, the new fretboard can be wider than the old one. The fretboard overhang can be filled with bondo to create a nice-feeling neck.
+While 7- and 8-string electric guitars are plentiful, acoustic ones are rarer. (See [[Extended range guitar]].) One way to get one is to convert a 12-string guitar. The neck will be sufficiently strong and there will be enough [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuners]] (aka tuning machines or machine heads). On the bridge, fill in all but the outer two pin holes. Then measure the distance between these two holes, divide by 6, and draw 5 new lines. (For an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 new lines.) Drill new pin holes accordingly. There's fewer strings but more courses, so the string spacing can be very tight. To avoid this, the new fretboard can be wider than the old one. The fretboard overhang can be filled with bondo to create a nice-feeling neck.
+Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8 strings. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. If not, again the new fretboard can be slightly wider. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar.
+To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a banjo tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. Use the type of banjo tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through.
+There will need to be new holes in the tie block. They might need to be drilled at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's often possible to go straight in with a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]
+On the tie block, divide the distance between the outer holes by 6 and draw 5 lines for your 5 new holes (or for an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 lines). Fill the inner 4 holes with toothpicks. You can thin the toothpick down by putting it in a drill press (or even a hand drill) where the bit would go. Then run a bit of sandpaper against it as it spins. Squirt some runny superglue on it and shove it into the hole. Cut off the excess with a razor blade. Squirt a bit more superglue onto the exposed end.
+To help get the precise angle and spacing, make a guide block out of a hard material like maple wood or [https://www.delrinplastics.net/ delrin]. Use a drill press to drill a 1/16" hole in it that is at the right height and angle. Draw a guide line on the top for aligning.
-Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8 strings. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. If not, again the new fretboard can be slightly wider. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar. There will need to be an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] (aka tuning machine or machine head). The 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a banjo tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. Use the type of banjo tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). Use one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through.
+If you don't like tying knots when you change strings, you can take this opportunity to drill 2 or even 3 holes per string. Look up "12-hole tie block" and "18-hole tie block" for details. Drill an extra hole or two into your guide block at the proper distance.
-There will need to be new holes in the tie block. They can be drilled at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. To help get the precise angle and spacing, one can make a guide block out of a hard wood like maple. This block will have holes drilled into it that line up with where the new holes will be.
+Position the block right up against the tie block and use the guide line to align it with one of the lines you drew on the top of the tie block. Use two-sided tape on the bottom of the block to hold it in place. To protect the face of the guitar, take a thin metal plate and cover the edges with tape. Then tape it to the guitar face.
+[[File:Getting ready to drill string holes.jpg|none|thumb|ready to drill]]
+Drill the hole or holes for this string. Use a 1/16" drill bit mounted into the bit extension. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html]. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.
-Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the string spacing.
+The nut will need to be replaced. This is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.
 ===Nut width===
@@ Line 103: / Line 120: @@
 By far the largest expense of a conversion is the fretwork. For a cheap conversion, one can defret a guitar, fill the old fret slots with wood filler, and then create new frets without using fretwire.
-To remove the frets, use a pair of end nippers. You may need to grind away the front a bit so that the cutting edge is at the absolute front of the pliers. First use  a soldering iron or an ordinary laundry iron to heat the fret, to weaken the glue. Touch the fret as you do this, to monitor the temperature. Too much heat will burn the fretboard. Then pull up the fret with the nippers, starting at one end of the fret and working your way to the other end.
+To remove the frets, use a pair of end nippers. You may need to grind away the front a bit so that the cutting edge is at the absolute front of the pliers. First use  a soldering iron or an ordinary laundry iron to heat the fret, to weaken the glue. Touch the fret as you do this, to monitor the temperature. Too much heat will burn the fretboard. Then pull up the fret with the nippers, getting the cutting edges underneath the top of the fret. Start at one end of the fret and work your way to the other end.
 There are several materials that can substitute for fretwire, all metal except for the last:
@@ Line 213: / Line 230: @@
 ==String Spacing==
-With 7 or 8 strings, it's important to avoid both a too-wide neck and a too-tight string spacing. Every millimeter counts. One can reduce neck width by minimizing the distance from the outer string to the edge of the fretboard. To do this, minimize the amount of rounding of the edge of the fretboard. And preserve as much usable fret length as possible by beveling the ends of the frets at a steeper angle and not over-rounding the corner of the fret where the top and the end meet.
+With 7 or 8 strings, it's important to avoid both a too-wide neck and a too-tight string spacing. Every millimeter counts. One can reduce neck width by minimizing the distance from the outer string to the edge of the fretboard. To do this, minimize the amount of rounding of the edge of the fretboard. And preserve as much usable fret length as possible by beveling the ends of the frets at a steeper angle and not over-rounding the shoulder of the fret where the top and the end meet.
 The spacing can be slightly improved further as follows: