How to make a Kite Guitar: Difference between revisions
added an intro about odd-frets layout, changed edo to equal, other minor changes |
added a spreadsheet for calculating fret placement |
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== General Design Considerations == | == General Design Considerations == | ||
There are two types of Kite | |||
=== Even-frets vs. odd-frets === | |||
There are two types of [[The Kite Guitar|Kite Guitar]] fretboards, even-frets and odd-frets. In the former, all or almost all of the frets are an even number of 41-equal steps from the nut. In the latter, it's an odd number. The even-frets layout is primarily for isomorphic ("same-shape") tunings and the odd-frets layout is primarily for open tunings. Most of the research and development to date has focused on the even-frets layout. | |||
An odd-frets guitar can be converted to an even-frets one simply by capoing. An even-frets one can be converted to odd-frets similarly if there is an additional fret (or fret slot that accepts a temporary fret) near the nut. There are also advantages musically to this extra fret even if not using open tunings. The extra fret is named the "a-fret" if it's between the nut and the 1st fret, "b-fret" if it's between the 1st and 2nd frets, etc. A b-fret or b-fret-slot might be better for acoustics, which tend to have higher nuts. There is absolutely no downside to having either an a-slot or a b-slot, and it's highly recommended. | An odd-frets guitar can be converted to an even-frets one simply by capoing. An even-frets one can be converted to odd-frets similarly if there is an additional fret (or fret slot that accepts a temporary fret) near the nut. There are also advantages musically to this extra fret even if not using open tunings. The extra fret is named the "a-fret" if it's between the nut and the 1st fret, "b-fret" if it's between the 1st and 2nd frets, etc. A b-fret or b-fret-slot might be better for acoustics, which tend to have higher nuts. There is absolutely no downside to having either an a-slot or a b-slot, and it's highly recommended. | ||
Assuming one is using | === 6 strings vs. 7 strings vs. 8 strings === | ||
Assuming one is not using an open tuning, a Kite guitar with 6 strings is a little limiting. 7 strings or even 8 is better. Arguably a slightly longer scale, say 27", is nice because it makes the frets less cramped. Fortunately 12-equal 7- and 8-string guitars often have longer scales anyway. But on the other hand, the Kite guitar's frets are not much tighter than a normal mandolin's, and some feel a longer scale isn't necessary. | |||
One way to get a 7 or 8-string acoustic is to convert a 12-string guitar. The neck will be sufficiently strong and there will be enough tuners. There's fewer strings but more courses, so the new fretboard may need to be wider than the old one. The fretboard overhang can be filled with bondo to create a nice-feeling neck. Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8 strings. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar. The 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. | |||
=== Number of frets === | |||
In any given key, the Kite guitar has multiple "rainbow zones" on the neck. Assuming the tonic falls in the "sweet spot" between the 4th and 11th fret, it takes about 28 frets to provide 2 zones in every key, but it takes the full 41 frets to provide 3 zones. This 3rd zone increases the range the lead guitarist has to solo in by a 5th or so. The highest frets are very tight, but still playable melodically. Chording is very difficult. Having a 41st fret makes intonating the guitar easier, see below. In general, if you can fit in 41 frets, do so. | |||
The fret spacing is 1.7 times tighter than a 12-equal guitar. This chart compares it to the standard fret spacing. The spacing between the nut and the first fret is about the same as the space between the 12-equal 9th and 10th frets. Increasing the overall scale length will widen the spacing. | |||
[[File:Kite Guitar Fret chart.jpg|none|thumb]] | |||
When converting a guitar, it's best to replace the entire fretboard, rather than removing the frets and putting new frets in the old fretboard. The 41-equal 5th is 702.5¢, so two frets will be only 2.5¢ away from the old ones, two will be 5¢ away, etc. So the old and new fret slots overlap, making conversion difficult. The following table shows the distance from the old fret to the new fret for close pairs. One could just use the old slots (or even the old frets) and accept a few cents error. But in certain keys a 5¢ error will make the | === Replacing each fret vs. replacing the entire fretboard === | ||
When converting a guitar, it's best to replace the entire fretboard, rather than removing the frets and putting new frets in the old fretboard. The 41-equal 5th is 702.5¢, so two frets will be only 2.5¢ away from the old ones, two will be 5¢ away, etc. So the old and new fret slots overlap, making conversion difficult. The following table shows the distance from the old fret to the new fret for close pairs. One could just use the old slots (or even the old frets) and accept a few cents error. But in certain keys a 5¢ error will make the downmajor 6th or 10th that's already 6¢ flat a full 11¢ flat. | |||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
|+distance between fret slots (center to center, scale = 25.5") | |+distance between fret slots (center to center, scale = 25.5") | ||
Line 41: | Line 53: | ||
|0.032" | |0.032" | ||
|} | |} | ||
Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement | Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see below). | ||
=== Fret Placement === | |||
To place the frets on a Kite guitar, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. Or use this spreadsheet: | |||
http://tallkite.com/misc_files/KiteGuitarFretPlacementCalculator.ods | |||
As an alternative to doing the work yourself, various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards. One option is [https://precisionpearl.com/ PrecisionPearl.com] which can make fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. With that option, all you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. | As an alternative to doing the work yourself, various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards. One option is [https://precisionpearl.com/ PrecisionPearl.com] which can make fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. With that option, all you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. | ||
== Fret Markers == | === Fret Markers === | ||
On an even-frets layout, dots (fretboard markers) are placed every 4 frets in a cycle of single-double-triple. So, the 4th fret has a single dot, the 8th fret has double dots, the 12th fret has triple dots, and then the 16th fret is back to single, and so on. Thus, a 36-fret guitar has 18 dots on 9 frets, and a 41-fret guitar has 19 dots on 10 frets. | On an even-frets layout, dots (fretboard markers) are placed every 4 frets in a cycle of single-double-triple. So, the 4th fret has a single dot, the 8th fret has double dots, the 12th fret has triple dots, and then the 16th fret is back to single, and so on. Thus, a 36-fret guitar has 18 dots on 9 frets, and a 41-fret guitar has 19 dots on 10 frets. | ||