How to make a Kite Guitar: Difference between revisions

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To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a ukulele tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. (Banjo tuners can work too.) Use the type of tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. This [https://graphtech.com/collections/ratio-machine-heads-ukulele/products/ratio-tune-a-lele-machine-heads-pru-4004-bk set of 4 ukulele tuners from graphtech.com] is $33 plus shipping.

There will need to be new holes in the tie block. ~~They might need to be drilled~~ at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's ~~often possible~~ to go straight in with a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]. ~~Harbor Freight also sells~~ drill ~~bits that fit into it, see below~~.

There will need to be new 1/16" holes in the tie block. One could drill at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's better to go straight in with an extra-long bit, perhaps 6" long. Or you can use a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html].

On the tie block, divide the distance between the outer holes by 6 and draw 5 lines for your 5 new holes (or for an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 lines). Fill the inner 4 holes with toothpicks. You can thin the toothpick down by putting it in a drill press (or even a hand drill) where the bit would go. Then run a bit of sandpaper against it as it spins. Squirt some runny superglue on it and shove it into the hole. Cut off the excess with a razor blade. Squirt a bit more superglue onto the exposed end.

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Position the block right up against the tie block and use the guide line to align it with one of the lines you drew on the top of the tie block. Use two-sided tape on the bottom of the block to hold it in place. To protect the face of the guitar, take a thin metal plate and cover the edges with tape. Then tape it to the guitar face.

[[File:Getting ready to drill string holes.jpg|none|thumb|ready to drill]]

Drill the hole ~~or holes~~ for this string~~. Use~~ a 1/16" drill bit mounted into the bit extension. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html]. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.

Drill the hole(s) for this string with a 1/16" drill bit. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.

The nut will need to be replaced. Making a high-quality nut is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. But if the new fretboard has a zero fret, the nut merely serves as a spacer. It doesn't affect the sound, and the exact width and depth of the nut slots don't matter as much. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.

@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a ukulele tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. (Banjo tuners can work too.) Use the type of tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. This [https://graphtech.com/collections/ratio-machine-heads-ukulele/products/ratio-tune-a-lele-machine-heads-pru-4004-bk set of 4 ukulele tuners from graphtech.com] is $33 plus shipping.
-There will need to be new holes in the tie block. They might need to be drilled at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's often possible to go straight in with a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]. Harbor Freight also sells drill bits that fit into it, see below.
+There will need to be new 1/16" holes in the tie block. One could drill at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's better to go straight in with an extra-long bit, perhaps 6" long. Or you can use a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html].
 On the tie block, divide the distance between the outer holes by 6 and draw 5 lines for your 5 new holes (or for an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 lines). Fill the inner 4 holes with toothpicks. You can thin the toothpick down by putting it in a drill press (or even a hand drill) where the bit would go. Then run a bit of sandpaper against it as it spins. Squirt some runny superglue on it and shove it into the hole. Cut off the excess with a razor blade. Squirt a bit more superglue onto the exposed end.
@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 Position the block right up against the tie block and use the guide line to align it with one of the lines you drew on the top of the tie block. Use two-sided tape on the bottom of the block to hold it in place. To protect the face of the guitar, take a thin metal plate and cover the edges with tape. Then tape it to the guitar face.
 [[File:Getting ready to drill string holes.jpg|none|thumb|ready to drill]]
-Drill the hole or holes for this string. Use a 1/16" drill bit mounted into the bit extension. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html]. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.
+Drill the hole(s) for this string with a 1/16" drill bit. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.
 The nut will need to be replaced. Making a high-quality nut is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. But if the new fretboard has a zero fret, the nut merely serves as a spacer. It doesn't affect the sound, and the exact width and depth of the nut slots don't matter as much. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.