How to make a Kite Guitar: Difference between revisions
→6 strings vs. 7 strings vs. 8 strings: added lots of info about adding a 7th string to a classical guitar |
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To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a banjo tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. Use the type of banjo tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. | To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a banjo tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. Use the type of banjo tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. | ||
There will need to be new holes in the tie block. They might need to be drilled at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's often possible to go straight in with a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html] | There will need to be new holes in the tie block. They might need to be drilled at an angle, entering from near the upper edge of the back of the tie block. But it's often possible to go straight in with a bit extension. This type is good because it's magnetic so there's no chuck to get in the way: [https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-hex-bit-extension-62691.html]. Harbor Freight also sells drill bits that fit into it, see below. | ||
On the tie block, divide the distance between the outer holes by 6 and draw 5 lines for your 5 new holes (or for an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 lines). Fill the inner 4 holes with toothpicks. You can thin the toothpick down by putting it in a drill press (or even a hand drill) where the bit would go. Then run a bit of sandpaper against it as it spins. Squirt some runny superglue on it and shove it into the hole. Cut off the excess with a razor blade. Squirt a bit more superglue onto the exposed end. | On the tie block, divide the distance between the outer holes by 6 and draw 5 lines for your 5 new holes (or for an 8-string, divide by 7 and draw 6 lines). Fill the inner 4 holes with toothpicks. You can thin the toothpick down by putting it in a drill press (or even a hand drill) where the bit would go. Then run a bit of sandpaper against it as it spins. Squirt some runny superglue on it and shove it into the hole. Cut off the excess with a razor blade. Squirt a bit more superglue onto the exposed end. | ||
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Drill the hole or holes for this string. Use a 1/16" drill bit mounted into the bit extension. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html]. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes. | Drill the hole or holes for this string. Use a 1/16" drill bit mounted into the bit extension. Make sure the bit is long enough to pass through both the guide block and the tie block. This one should be long enough: [https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html harborfreight.com/titanium-hex-shank-drill-bit-set-13-piece-61621.html]. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes. | ||
The nut will need to be replaced. This is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing. | The nut will need to be replaced. This is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing. | ||
===Nut width=== | ===Nut width=== | ||
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[[File:Positioning a Kite Guitar fretboard -2.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]] | [[File:Positioning a Kite Guitar fretboard -2.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]] | ||
==Fret Placement== | ==Fret and Dot Placement== | ||
On a standard guitar, the nth fret is L * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where L is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's L * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. Or use this spreadsheet: | On a standard guitar, the nth fret is L * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where L is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's L * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet: | ||
[[File:KiteGuitarFret&DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip|none|thumb]] | |||
The spreadsheet also has formulas to locate the fret markers aka dots (see the next section). | |||
Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. All of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards: | |||
*[https://www.tonedevilharpguitars.com/ Tonedevil Guitars] (Idaho) | *[https://www.tonedevilharpguitars.com/ Tonedevil Guitars] (Idaho) | ||
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*[https://www.johnjansenmusic.com/discography-2 JLJ Instruments] (Maryland) | *[https://www.johnjansenmusic.com/discography-2 JLJ Instruments] (Maryland) | ||
*[https://precisionpearl.com/ Precision Pearl] (Texas) | *[https://precisionpearl.com/ Precision Pearl] (Texas) | ||
==Fret Markers== | |||
On an even-frets layout, dots (fretboard markers) are placed every 4 frets in a cycle of single-double-triple. So, the 4th fret has a single dot, the 8th fret has double dots, the 12th fret has triple dots, and then the 16th fret is back to single, and so on. Thus, a 36-fret guitar (pictured) has 18 dots on 9 frets, and a 41-fret guitar has 19 dots on 10 frets. | |||
[[File:Ovation fretboard.jpg|none|thumb|538x538px]] | |||
The small dots on the side of the neck follow the same single/double/triple pattern. The double and triple dots are oriented like the usual 12-equal double dots. Further up the neck, the triple dots are too wide to fit between the frets, but this is not a problem. | |||
Because the frets get closer as one goes up the neck, the double dots are closer to the triple dots than the single dots. As a result, if the distance between the double dots is the same as the distance between any two of the triple dots, the side of each "kite" formed by the dots is a concave line. To make a nice straight line, use the spreadsheet from the previous section. | |||
== DIY Frets == | == DIY Frets == | ||
By far the largest expense of a conversion is the fretwork. For a cheap conversion, one can defret a guitar, fill the old fret slots with wood filler, and then create new frets without using fretwire. | By far the largest expense of a conversion is the fretwork. For a cheap conversion, one can defret a guitar, fill the old fret slots with wood filler, and then create new frets without using fretwire. | ||
To remove the frets, use a pair of end nippers. | To remove the frets, use a pair of end nippers. Grind away the front a bit so that the cutting edge is at the absolute front of the pliers. First use a soldering iron or an ordinary laundry iron to heat the fret, to weaken the glue. Touch the fret as you do this, to monitor the temperature. Too much heat will burn the fretboard. Then pull up the fret with the nippers, getting the cutting edges underneath the top of the fret. Start at one end of the fret and work your way to the other end. | ||
There are several materials that can substitute for fretwire, all metal except for the last: | There are several materials that can substitute for fretwire, all metal except for the last: | ||
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For the metal materials, use double-sided sticky tape to attach the fret. Check the placement with an electronic tuner. Works best on an unradiused fretboard. | For the metal materials, use double-sided sticky tape to attach the fret. Check the placement with an electronic tuner. Works best on an unradiused fretboard. | ||
==String Gauges== | ==String Gauges== | ||