How to make a Kite Guitar: Difference between revisions

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A d-fret (3.5 fret) provides a note 9/8 from the nut. This can be very useful if using the alternating 3rds tuning (vM3 and ^m3) or an open tuning. For example in the alternating 3rds tuning, one can play a 5-limit downmajor scale by the nut with every other note as an open string, great for fast runs. An e-fret 7/6 from the nut provides 7-limit downminor notes.

On a Kite guitar, each string fills in the missing notes on the neighboring strings. But there are 6 missing notes in the very upper and lower ranges. The 6 gaps in the upper range are fairly easily filled with half-fret bends. To fill the 6 low gaps, one might want short "[https://Fretlet.com fretlets]" on the lowest string, especially on a bass guitar. Their names run from a-fretlet to f-fretlet.

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Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8 strings. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. If not, again the new fretboard can be slightly wider.

To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a ukulele tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. (Banjo tuners can work too.) Use the type of tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. This [https://graphtech.com/collections/ratio-machine-heads-ukulele/products/ratio-tune-a-lele-machine-heads-pru-4004-bk set of 4 ukulele tuners from graphtech.com] is $33 plus shipping.

To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a ukulele tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. (Banjo tuners can work too.) Use the type of tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. This [https://graphtech.com/collections/ratio-machine-heads-ukulele/products/ratio-tune-a-lele-machine-heads-pru-4004-bk set of 4 ukulele tuners from graphtech.com] is $33 plus shipping as of 2024.

[[File:7th tuner topside.jpg|left|thumb|banjo tuner, top view|301x301px]]

[[File:7th tuner underside.jpg|none|thumb|banjo tuner, bottom view|268x268px]]

Or one could use a standard guitar tuner as seen here:

[[File:Classical guitar headstock 1.jpg|left|thumb|261x261px|guitar tuner, top view]]

[[File:Classical guitar headstock 2.jpg|none|thumb|310x310px|guitar tuner, bottom view]]

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Drill the hole(s) for this string with a 1/16" drill bit. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.

The nut will need to be replaced. Making a high-quality nut is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. But if the new fretboard has a zero fret, the nut merely serves as a spacer. It doesn't affect the sound, and the exact width and depth of the nut slots don't matter as much. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.

The nut will need to be replaced. Making a high-quality nut is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. But if the new fretboard has a zero fret, the nut merely serves as a spacer. It doesn't affect the sound, and the exact width and depth of the nut slots don't matter as much.

Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.

=== Range ===

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In any given key, the Kite guitar has multiple "rainbow zones" on the neck. Assuming the tonic falls in the "sweet spot" between the 4th and 11th fret, it takes about 28 frets to provide 2 zones in every key, but it takes the full 41 frets to provide 3 zones. This 3rd zone increases the range the lead guitarist has to solo in by a 5th or so. The highest frets are very tight, but still playable melodically. Chording is very difficult. Having a 41st fret makes intonating the guitar easier, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Saddle%20and%20Nut%20Compensation|Saddle and Nut Compensation]] below. In general, if you can fit in 41 frets, do so.

There is a 'home zone" around the 14th fret that is the rainbow zone when the low open string is the tonic. There is a 2nd home zone around the 28th fret. To get a complete 2nd home zone, one needs about 32 frets. ~~This should~~ be the minimum number of frets even on an acoustic or classical without a cutaway. Fortunately this translates to almost 19 conventional frets, which almost all guitars have.

There is a 'home zone" around the 14th fret that is the rainbow zone when the low open string is the tonic. There is a 2nd home zone around the 28th fret. To get a complete 2nd home zone, one needs about 32 frets. Ideally this would be the minimum number of frets even on an acoustic or classical without a cutaway. Fortunately this translates to almost 19 conventional 12-equal frets, which almost all guitars have.

The fret spacing is 1.71 times tighter than a 12-equal guitar. This chart compares it to the standard fret spacing. The spacing between the nut and the first fret is about the same as the space between the 12-equal 9th and 10th frets. Increasing the overall scale length will widen the spacing.

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|0.032"

|}

Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below).

Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below). Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.

==Fret placement==

On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:

On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. (4 not 2 because it's 41 frets per ''double'' octave, which has [[frequency ratio]] 4/1 not 2/1.) For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:

[https://en.xen.wiki/images/5/55/KiteGuitarFret%26DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip KiteGuitarFret&DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip]

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The spreadsheet also has formulas to locate the fret markers aka dots (see the next section).

Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. ~~All~~ of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:

Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. [https://KiteGuitar.com KiteGuitar.com] often has fretboards in stock. Furthermore, all of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:

*[http://kozmguitars.com/ KOZM Guitars] (Oregon)

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===Adding in-between frets or fretlets===

This section covers adding new frets or [https://Fretlet.com fretlets] (short frets that don't reach all the strings) to an already completed Kite guitar. The fret you are adding may or may not have a tang, and you may or may not need to cut a fret slot for it. A tangless fret is secured with glue or two-sided tape. You can place it temporarily with ordinary tape over the top of it, and check the cents with a tuner. Then mark the position with a pencil and attach it more permanently with superglue. Or you can find the correct position using the following formulas.

This section covers adding new frets or [https://Fretlet.com fretlets] (short frets that don't reach all the strings) to an already completed Kite guitar. The fret you are adding may or may not have a tang, and you may or may not need to cut a fret slot for it. A tangless fret is secured with glue or two-sided tape. You can place it temporarily with ordinary tape over the top of it, or two-sided tape underneath it, and check the cents with a tuner. Then mark the position with a pencil and attach it more permanently with superglue. Or you can find the correct position using the following formulas.

To add '''tangless''' frets, measure X and F (or X+F and F) like so:

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Use either D1 or D2, or both, to place the fret.

[[File:FretletPlacement2.jpg|none|thumb]]

~~If one is instead cutting a fret-slot for~~ a '''fret with a tang''', D1 and D2 are the distances from the edge of the original fret to the center of the new fret slot. Use the same formulas, but measure X and F like so:

For a '''fret with a tang''', D1 and D2 are the distances from the edge of the original fret to the center of the new fret slot. Use the same formulas, but measure X and F like so:

[[File:FretletPlacement3.jpg|none|thumb]]

Incidentally, these formulas work for any edo. Just change the value of K. If adding frets to a 12-~~edo~~ guitar to convert it to ~~24edo~~:

Incidentally, these formulas work for any edo. Just change the value of K. If adding frets to a 12-equal guitar to convert it to 24-equal:

*K = 24th root of 2 = 2 ^ (1/24) = 1.0293

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On an even-frets layout, dots (fretboard markers) are placed every 4 frets in a cycle of single-double-triple. So, the 4th fret has a single dot, the 8th fret has double dots, the 12th fret has triple dots, and then the 16th fret is back to single, and so on. Thus, a 36-fret guitar (pictured) has 18 dots on 9 frets, and a 41-fret guitar has 19 dots on 10 frets.

[[File:Ovation fretboard.jpg|none|thumb|538x538px]]

The small dots on the side of the neck follow the same single/double/triple pattern. The double and triple dots are oriented like the usual 12-equal double dots. At the 36th fret, the triple dots are too wide to fit between the frets. This is not a problem if there is no binding and each fret's tang stops short of the edge of the fretboard, as is the case with the removable b-fret shown [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Even-frets vs. odd-frets|above]]. Otherwise, ~~only~~ the 35th and 36th frets can ~~have their tangs~~ stop short. As a last resort, the triple side dots can be placed in a triangle.

The small dots on the side of the neck follow the same single/double/triple pattern. The double and triple dots are oriented like the usual 12-equal double dots. At the 36th fret, the triple dots are too wide to fit between the frets. This is not a problem if there is no binding and each fret's tang stops short of the edge of the fretboard, as is the case with the removable b-fret shown [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Even-frets vs. odd-frets|above]]. Otherwise, the tangs of the 35th and 36th frets can stop short on the bass side of the fretboard only. As a last resort, the triple side dots can be placed in a triangle.

[[File:Jackson dinky side dots 1 small.jpg|left|thumb|339x339px]]

[[File:Kite guitar side dots 2 small cropped.jpg|none|thumb]]

Because the frets get closer as one goes up the neck, the double dots are closer to the triple dots than the single dots. As a result, if the distance between the double dots is the same as the distance between any two of the triple dots, the side of each "kite" formed by the dots is a concave line. To make a nice straight line, use the spreadsheet from [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|above]].

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* half-round dental clasp wire

*tangless fretwire meant for [[wikipedia:Parker_Guitars|Parker guitars]]

*tangless fretwire from [https://sintoms.com/en/frets-and-tools-for-frets-production/frets-production/microtonal-frets/ Sintoms.com]

*[https://Fretlet.com fretlets] from John Schneider

*short sections of an old guitar string (good for a radiused fretboard)

*plastic cable ties aka zip ties (easiest to install)

For the guitar string sections, use packaging tape over the fret. For the other metal materials, use double-sided ~~sticky~~ tape under the fret. Check the placement with an electronic tuner.

For the guitar string sections, use packaging tape over the fret. For the other metal materials, use double-sided tape under the fret. Check the placement with an electronic tuner.

=== Cable ties ===

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[[File:Cable-tie frets after covering.jpg|none|thumb|335x335px]]

==String ~~Gauges~~==

==String gauges==

A 6-string Kite guitar tuned in 3rds can be strung with a standard set of strings, but it's not ideal. The high strings will be somewhat slack, and the low strings will be somewhat tight. To find the appropriate gauges, use the D'Addario method: calculate each string's tension from its unit weight, length and pitch (frequency) by the formula T = UW x (2 x L x F)2 / 386.4. For open strings, the length is the guitar's scale. The frequency in hertz of the Nth string of 8 strings tuned in the standard downmajor 3rds with a low string of vD is 440 * (2 ^ (-7/12 + (21 - 13*N) / 41)). For a 6-string guitar in mid-6 tuning, N ranges from 2 to 7. Or use the [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Frequencies|frequency table]] below. The unit weight is pounds per inch, and is a function of string gauge and string type (plain vs. wound, etc.). Unit weights for a given gauge vary by manufacturer. One can work backwards from this and select string gauges/types that give uniform tensions. The formula is UW = (T x 386.4) / (2 x L x F)2.

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[https://www.juststrings.com/ JustStrings.com] and [https://www.stringsbymail.com/ StringsByMail.com] both sell custom gauges singly or in bulk. Individual Savarez nylon strings in various gauges: [https://www.StringsByMail.com/classical-guitar-strings-1/savarez-62/savarez-specialty-singles-147/alliance-kf-carbon-602/alliance-kf-1-meter-460/ StringsByMail.com/classical-guitar-strings-1/savarez-62/savarez-specialty-singles-147/alliance-kf-carbon-602/alliance-kf-1-meter-460]

Seagaur [https://seaguar.com/products/blue-label?variant=42960855531739 blue label flourocarbon fishing line] is also an option for plain strings for classical guitars. A 50lb string is about .025", and a 60lb string is about .028". Beware, 60 lbs refers to the maximum weight of the fish being caught, not the tension that you should tune the string to!

{| class="wikitable center-2 center-3"

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| style="text-align:center;" |27"

|vD

| 11.5 15 18p 24w 30 36 46 56

| style="text-align:left;" | 11.5 15 18p 24w 30 36 46 56

|D'Addario

|somewhat light

|-

! rowspan="2" |electric guitar

! rowspan="4" |electric guitar

| style="text-align:center;" |25.5"

| vD

|10 11.5 15 19p/20w 26 32 40 50

|StringJoy

|Nickel Wound

|-

|25.5-26.5"

|vD

|10 13 16 19p/22w 26 34 42 52

| style="text-align:left;" |10 13 16 19p/22w 26 34 42 52

|D'Addario

|

|-

| style="text-align:center;" |25.5"

| style="text-align:center;" |26.5"

| vD

|C

|~~10 11~~.5 ~~15 19p/20w~~ 26 ~~32 40 50~~

| style="text-align:left;" |13.5 17p 24w 28 36 48 58

|~~StringJoy~~

|Phlub

|~~Nickel Wound~~

|

|-

| style="text-align:center;" |26.5"

|C

| style="text-align:left;" |11 14 18p 24w 30 36 46 62

|John Platter

|C F vA C vE G C vE

|-

!electric bass

! rowspan="2" |electric bass

|34"

|vD

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|Nickel Wound

|-

!classical guitar

| style="text-align:center;" |35"

|C

|32 45 55 70 80 90 125 (all wound)

|John Platter

|C F vA C vE G C

|-

! rowspan="2" |classical guitar

|25.5"

|^^F

|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40 high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77

|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40 48 high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77

|

|Kite

|high 3: Savarez KF low 4: Silverwound

|high 3: Savarez KF low 5: Silverwound

|-

| style="text-align:center;" |650mm

|C

| style="text-align:left;" |29 33 41p 26w 31 33 40 52

|John Platter

|C F vA C vE G C vE

|}

== Fretboard removal ==

'''IMPORTANT''': Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.

If the old fretboard is glued on, apply heat and use a putty knife. Go very slowly to avoid damaging the neck. The whole process often takes an hour or two.

If the old fretboard is epoxied on, you may prefer to grind it off using a router. Remove all the old frets first. For an electric, remove the neck from the body first.

==Fretboard placement ==

When building a guitar, the bridge is positioned relative to the fretboard. When converting a guitar, ~~it's crucial to place~~ the fretboard ~~accurately~~ relative to the bridge. This process is like saddle compensation, but instead of moving the saddle points back and forth, one moves the entire fretboard back and forth.

When building a guitar, the bridge/saddle is positioned relative to the fretboard. When converting a guitar, the fretboard is positioned relative to the bridge/saddle. This process is like saddle compensation, but instead of moving the saddle points back and forth, one moves the entire fretboard back and forth.

~~One method:~~ first put the frets on the fretboard. Then clamp it to the neck using narrow wooden blocks that won't interfere with the strings. Then string it up, test the intonation, and adjust the fretboard placement as needed (see below). Finally, mark the correct position, remove the strings, and glue down the fretboard.

On an electric guitar, the saddle points are adjustable, so the fretboard placement need be only roughly correct. But on an acoustic or classical guitar, it's crucial to place the fretboard accurately.

When gluing on the fretboard, unless it's an electric, be sure to use locator pins! This is a standard (non-microtonal) luthier practice, search for "fretboard locator pins". With the fretboard clamped onto the neck, drill two (some suggest three or four) 1/16" guide holes through the fretboard and partway into the neck, to position the neck during glue-up. Drill the holes in the fret slots so that the frets will hide the holes. Drill off-center to avoid the truss rod. Drill one hole at the first fret slot and the other near the top of the neck. Do not drill into the body. Unclamp the fretboard and put 1/16" locating pins in the guide holes to position the fretboard exactly. If the fretboard wood is extremely oily (such as padauk wood), first treat it with acetone. Glue the fretboard on using ordinary [[wikipedia:Polyvinyl_acetate|woodworker's glue]]. Once the glue is dry, carefully remove the locator pins. Do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path, then install the frets.

=== Method #1 ===

Before removing the old fretboard, check the intonation. Assuming it's on, mark the location of the old (12-equal) 7th fret on both sides of the neck. Do the same with the old 17th fret by putting tape on the guitar body on both sides of the fretboard. We'll be using these 4 guide marks to place the new (41-equal) fretboard.

If the intonation is off, use a formula to convert the error in cents to an error in millimeters or inches. This formula is given in the section below on saddle compensation. We're doing saddle compensation in reverse: rather than moving the saddle points, we're moving the guide marks.

Remove the old fretboard. Use the guide marks to position the new fretboard, which at this point has no frets in it. The new 12th fret slot will be only 2.5¢ closer to the soundhole than the old 7th fret. And the new 29th fret slot will be 2.5¢ further from the soundhole than the old 17th fret. That 2.5¢ distance will be almost twice as large for the new 12th fret as for the new 29th fret (almost twice because a 34\41 minor 7th is almost an octave). So eyeball the marks and the fret slots until it looks right on both sides of the neck/body.

=== Method #2 ===

Remove the old fretboard. Put the frets on the new fretboard. Then clamp it to the neck using narrow wooden blocks that won't interfere with the strings. Then string it up, test the intonation, and adjust the fretboard placement as needed (see below). Finally, mark the correct position, remove the strings, and glue down the fretboard.

But many luthiers prefer to install the frets after the fretboard is attached, so that they can do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path. If so, only install those frets needed for intonation. After gluing down the fretboard, remove those few frets, level, and then install all the frets.

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[[File:Positioning a Kite Guitar fretboard -2.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]

Always install at least two frets, because the nut might need compensation (see below), and can't be trusted yet. One might use frets 1 and 13 to get a fifth, or frets 0.5 (the a-fret) and 21 to get an octave. Or one might install 3 or 4 frets, for safety. Check the tuning at all the frets and all the strings, using Method #2 below. Then place the fretboard

Always install at least two frets, because the nut might need compensation (see below), and can't be trusted yet. One might use frets 1 and 13 to get a fifth, or frets 0.5 (the a-fret) and 21 to get an octave. Or one might install 3 or 4 frets, for safety. Check the tuning at all the frets and all the strings, using Method #2 below. Then place the fretboard.

==Saddle and nut compensation ==

Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or ~~nylon~~, one must file the saddle.

Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or classical, one must file the saddle. Or one can make the saddle points adjustable. Widen the saddle slot by about 1/8" or 1/4". Cut the saddle into sections, one per string. Shim each saddle section individually in front and/or in back to place it properly.

[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]

[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar 2.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]

===Short answer===

For each string, match the 41st fret harmonic exactly with the fretted note, using a tuner. You can also match the 12th fret harmonic with the 12th fret note, which will be 1 octave lower. (To be precise, the fretted note should be half a cent sharper than the harmonic.) Ideally check at both the 12th and 41st frets, and split the difference to get both as in tune as possible.

You could instead simply check various fretted notes against the tuner. Every 4th note (i.e. every fret marker) should suffice.

===Long answer===

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===Frequencies===

41-equal frequencies in Hertz. The anchor note D is tuned to standard A-440 pitch. vA is roughly ~~432hz~~, and vvB is roughly the ubiquitous ~~60hz~~ electrical hum.

41-equal frequencies in Hertz. The anchor note D is tuned to standard A-440 pitch. vA is roughly 432 Hz, and vvB is roughly the ubiquitous 60 Hz electrical hum. (For readers in China or Europe, ^G is roughly 50 Hz.)

{| class="wikitable"

!

@@ Line 31: / Line 31: @@
+A d-fret (3.5 fret) provides a note 9/8 from the nut. This can be very useful if using the alternating 3rds tuning (vM3 and ^m3) or an open tuning. For example in the alternating 3rds tuning, one can play a 5-limit downmajor scale by the nut with every other note as an open string, great for fast runs. An e-fret 7/6 from the nut provides 7-limit downminor notes.
 On a Kite guitar, each string fills in the missing notes on the neighboring strings. But there are 6 missing notes in the very upper and lower ranges. The 6 gaps in the upper range are fairly easily filled with half-fret bends. To fill the 6 low gaps, one might want short "[https://Fretlet.com fretlets]" on the lowest string, especially on a bass guitar. Their names run from a-fretlet to f-fretlet.
@@ Line 45: / Line 48: @@
 Another possibility is to convert a 6-string classical nylon-string to 7 or 8 strings. The tension is low enough that an extra string or two won't break the guitar. The fingerboard is wide enough that it may suffice as is. If not, again the new fretboard can be slightly wider.
-To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a ukulele tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. (Banjo tuners can work too.) Use the type of tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. This [https://graphtech.com/collections/ratio-machine-heads-ukulele/products/ratio-tune-a-lele-machine-heads-pru-4004-bk set of 4 ukulele tuners from graphtech.com] is $33 plus shipping.
+To add an additional [[wikipedia:Machine_head|tuner]] or two, the 3 holes on each side of the headstock that the tuner pegs go through can be filled and 4 new holes drilled. Or a ukulele tuner or two can be added at the top of the headstock. (Banjo tuners can work too.) Use the type of tuner that has the knob pointing backwards, not sideways (i.e. perpendicular to the headstock, not parallel to it). For ease of use, get one that is geared (via a [[wikipedia:Epicyclic_gearing|planetary gear]]), so that many turns of the knob equals one turn of the post that the string passes through. This [https://graphtech.com/collections/ratio-machine-heads-ukulele/products/ratio-tune-a-lele-machine-heads-pru-4004-bk set of 4 ukulele tuners from graphtech.com] is $33 plus shipping as of 2024.
 [[File:7th tuner topside.jpg|left|thumb|banjo tuner, top view|301x301px]]
 [[File:7th tuner underside.jpg|none|thumb|banjo tuner, bottom view|268x268px]]
+Or one could use a standard guitar tuner as seen here:
+[[File:Classical guitar headstock 1.jpg|left|thumb|261x261px|guitar tuner, top view]]
+[[File:Classical guitar headstock 2.jpg|none|thumb|310x310px|guitar tuner, bottom view]]
@@ Line 62: / Line 70: @@
 Drill the hole(s) for this string with a 1/16" drill bit. Drill a little at a time and clean the dust off the bit between passes. Leave the metal plate in place and reposition the guide block to drill the remaining holes.
-The nut will need to be replaced. Making a high-quality nut is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. But if the new fretboard has a zero fret, the nut merely serves as a spacer. It doesn't affect the sound, and the exact width and depth of the nut slots don't matter as much. Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.
+The nut will need to be replaced. Making a high-quality nut is a bit tricky for the amateur DIY-er, and you may need to use a luthier. But if the new fretboard has a zero fret, the nut merely serves as a spacer. It doesn't affect the sound, and the exact width and depth of the nut slots don't matter as much.
+Because both the nut and the tie block holes will be replaced, and because the new fretboard can be a little wider or narrower than the old one, one has a lot of control over the new string spacing.
 === Range ===
@@ Line 272: / Line 282: @@
 In any given key, the Kite guitar has multiple "rainbow zones" on the neck. Assuming the tonic falls in the "sweet spot" between the 4th and 11th fret, it takes about 28 frets to provide 2 zones in every key, but it takes the full 41 frets to provide 3 zones. This 3rd zone increases the range the lead guitarist has to solo in by a 5th or so. The highest frets are very tight, but still playable melodically. Chording is very difficult. Having a 41st fret makes intonating the guitar easier, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Saddle%20and%20Nut%20Compensation|Saddle and Nut Compensation]] below. In general, if you can fit in 41 frets, do so.
-There is a 'home zone" around the 14th fret that is the rainbow zone when the low open string is the tonic. There is a 2nd home zone around the 28th fret. To get a complete 2nd home zone, one needs about 32 frets. This should be the minimum number of frets even on an acoustic or classical without a cutaway. Fortunately this translates to almost 19 conventional frets, which almost all guitars have.
+There is a 'home zone" around the 14th fret that is the rainbow zone when the low open string is the tonic. There is a 2nd home zone around the 28th fret. To get a complete 2nd home zone, one needs about 32 frets. Ideally this would be the minimum number of frets even on an acoustic or classical without a cutaway. Fortunately this translates to almost 19 conventional 12-equal frets, which almost all guitars have.
 The fret spacing is 1.71 times tighter than a 12-equal guitar. This chart compares it to the standard fret spacing. The spacing between the nut and the first fret is about the same as the space between the 12-equal 9th and 10th frets. Increasing the overall scale length will widen the spacing.
@@ Line 320: / Line 330: @@
 |0.032"
 |}
-Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below).
+Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below). Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.
 ==Fret placement==
-On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:
+On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. (4 not 2 because it's 41 frets per ''double'' octave, which has [[frequency ratio]] 4/1 not 2/1.) For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:
 [https://en.xen.wiki/images/5/55/KiteGuitarFret%26DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip KiteGuitarFret&DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip]
@@ Line 329: / Line 339: @@
 The spreadsheet also has formulas to locate the fret markers aka dots (see the next section).
-Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. All of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:
+Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. [https://KiteGuitar.com KiteGuitar.com] often has fretboards in stock. Furthermore, all of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:
 *[http://kozmguitars.com/ KOZM Guitars] (Oregon)
@@ Line 338: / Line 348: @@
 ===Adding in-between frets or fretlets===
-This section covers adding new frets or [https://Fretlet.com fretlets] (short frets that don't reach all the strings) to an already completed Kite guitar. The fret you are adding may or may not have a tang, and you may or may not need to cut a fret slot for it. A tangless fret is secured with glue or two-sided tape. You can place it temporarily with ordinary tape over the top of it, and check the cents with a tuner. Then mark the position with a pencil and attach it more permanently with superglue. Or you can find the correct position using the following formulas.
+This section covers adding new frets or [https://Fretlet.com fretlets] (short frets that don't reach all the strings) to an already completed Kite guitar. The fret you are adding may or may not have a tang, and you may or may not need to cut a fret slot for it. A tangless fret is secured with glue or two-sided tape. You can place it temporarily with ordinary tape over the top of it, or two-sided tape underneath it, and check the cents with a tuner. Then mark the position with a pencil and attach it more permanently with superglue. Or you can find the correct position using the following formulas.
 To add <u>'''tangless'''</u> frets, measure X and F (or X+F and F) like so:
@@ Line 354: / Line 364: @@
 Use either D1 or D2, or both, to place the fret.
 [[File:FretletPlacement2.jpg|none|thumb]]
-If one is instead cutting a fret-slot for a <u>'''fret with a tang'''</u>, D1 and D2 are the distances from the edge of the original fret to the center of the new fret slot. Use the same formulas, but measure X and F like so:
+For a <u>'''fret with a tang'''</u>, D1 and D2 are the distances from the edge of the original fret to the center of the new fret slot. Use the same formulas, but measure X and F like so:
 [[File:FretletPlacement3.jpg|none|thumb]]
-Incidentally, these formulas work for any edo. Just change the value of K. If adding frets to a 12-edo guitar to convert it to 24edo:
+Incidentally, these formulas work for any edo. Just change the value of K. If adding frets to a 12-equal guitar to convert it to 24-equal:
 *K = 24th root of 2 = 2 ^ (1/24) = 1.0293
@@ Line 364: / Line 374: @@
 On an even-frets layout, dots (fretboard markers) are placed every 4 frets in a cycle of single-double-triple. So, the 4th fret has a single dot, the 8th fret has double dots, the 12th fret has triple dots, and then the 16th fret is back to single, and so on. Thus, a 36-fret guitar (pictured) has 18 dots on 9 frets, and a 41-fret guitar has 19 dots on 10 frets.
 [[File:Ovation fretboard.jpg|none|thumb|538x538px]]
-The small dots on the side of the neck follow the same single/double/triple pattern. The double and triple dots are oriented like the usual 12-equal double dots. At the 36th fret, the triple dots are too wide to fit between the frets. This is not a problem if there is no binding and each fret's tang stops short of the edge of the fretboard, as is the case with the removable b-fret shown [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Even-frets vs. odd-frets|above]]. Otherwise, only the 35th and 36th frets can have their tangs stop short. As a last resort, the triple side dots can be placed in a triangle.
+The small dots on the side of the neck follow the same single/double/triple pattern. The double and triple dots are oriented like the usual 12-equal double dots. At the 36th fret, the triple dots are too wide to fit between the frets. This is not a problem if there is no binding and each fret's tang stops short of the edge of the fretboard, as is the case with the removable b-fret shown [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Even-frets vs. odd-frets|above]]. Otherwise, the tangs of the 35th and 36th frets can stop short on the bass side of the fretboard only. As a last resort, the triple side dots can be placed in a triangle.
+[[File:Jackson dinky side dots 1 small.jpg|left|thumb|339x339px]]
+[[File:Kite guitar side dots 2 small cropped.jpg|none|thumb]]
 Because the frets get closer as one goes up the neck, the double dots are closer to the triple dots than the single dots. As a result, if the distance between the double dots is the same as the distance between any two of the triple dots, the side of each "kite" formed by the dots is a concave line. To make a nice straight line, use the spreadsheet from [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|above]].
@@ Line 378: / Line 391: @@
 * half-round dental clasp wire
 *tangless fretwire meant for [[wikipedia:Parker_Guitars|Parker guitars]]
+*tangless fretwire from [https://sintoms.com/en/frets-and-tools-for-frets-production/frets-production/microtonal-frets/ Sintoms.com]
 *[https://Fretlet.com fretlets] from John Schneider
 *short sections of an old guitar string (good for a radiused fretboard)
 *plastic cable ties aka zip ties (easiest to install)
-For the guitar string sections, use packaging tape over the fret. For the other metal materials, use double-sided sticky tape under the fret. Check the placement with an electronic tuner.
+For the guitar string sections, use packaging tape over the fret. For the other metal materials, use double-sided tape under the fret. Check the placement with an electronic tuner.
 === Cable ties ===
@@ Line 397: / Line 411: @@
 [[File:Cable-tie frets after covering.jpg|none|thumb|335x335px]]
-==String Gauges==
+==String gauges==
 A 6-string Kite guitar tuned in 3rds can be strung with a standard set of strings, but it's not ideal. The high strings will be somewhat slack, and the low strings will be somewhat tight. To find the appropriate gauges, use the D'Addario method: calculate each string's tension from its unit weight, length and pitch (frequency) by the formula T =  UW  x (2 x L x F)<sup>2</sup> / 386.4. For open strings, the length is the guitar's scale. The frequency in hertz of the Nth string of 8 strings tuned in the standard downmajor 3rds with a low string of vD is 440 * (2 ^ (-7/12 + (21 - 13*N) / 41)). For a 6-string guitar in mid-6 tuning, N ranges from 2 to 7. Or use the [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Frequencies|frequency table]] below. The unit weight is pounds per inch, and is a function of string gauge and string type (plain vs. wound, etc.). <u>Unit weights for a given gauge vary by manufacturer</u>. One can work backwards from this and select string gauges/types that give uniform tensions. The formula is UW = (T x 386.4) / (2 x L x F)<sup>2</sup>.
@@ Line 420: / Line 434: @@
 [https://www.juststrings.com/ JustStrings.com] and [https://www.stringsbymail.com/ StringsByMail.com] both sell custom gauges singly or in bulk. Individual Savarez nylon strings in various gauges: [https://www.StringsByMail.com/classical-guitar-strings-1/savarez-62/savarez-specialty-singles-147/alliance-kf-carbon-602/alliance-kf-1-meter-460/ StringsByMail.com/classical-guitar-strings-1/savarez-62/savarez-specialty-singles-147/alliance-kf-carbon-602/alliance-kf-1-meter-460]
+Seagaur [https://seaguar.com/products/blue-label?variant=42960855531739 blue label flourocarbon fishing line] is also an option for plain strings for classical guitars. A 50lb string is about .025", and a 60lb string is about .028". Beware, 60 lbs refers to the maximum weight of the fish being caught, not the tension that you should tune the string to!
 {| class="wikitable center-2 center-3"
@@ Line 439: / Line 455: @@
 | style="text-align:center;" |27"
 |vD
-| 11.5  15  18p  24w  30  36  46  56
+| style="text-align:left;" | 11.5  15  18p  24w  30  36  46  56
 |D'Addario
 |somewhat light
 |-
-! rowspan="2" |electric guitar
+! rowspan="4" |electric guitar
+| style="text-align:center;" |25.5"
+| vD
+|10  11.5  15  19p/20w  26  32  40  50
+|StringJoy
+|Nickel Wound
+|-
 |25.5-26.5"
 |vD
-|10  13  16  19p/22w  26  34  42  52
+| style="text-align:left;" |10  13  16  19p/22w  26  34  42  52
 |D'Addario
 |
 |-
-| style="text-align:center;" |25.5"
+| style="text-align:center;" |26.5"
-| vD
+|C
-|10  11.5  15  19p/20w  26  32  40  50
+| style="text-align:left;" |13.5 17p 24w 28 36 48 58
-|StringJoy
+|Phlub
-|Nickel Wound
+|
+|-
+| style="text-align:center;" |26.5"
+|C
+| style="text-align:left;" |11 14 18p 24w 30 36 46 62
+|John Platter
+|C F vA C vE G C vE
 |-
-!electric bass
+! rowspan="2" |electric bass
 |34"
 |vD
@@ Line 463: / Line 491: @@
 |Nickel Wound
 |-
-!classical guitar
+| style="text-align:center;" |35"
+|C
+|32 45 55 70 80 90 125 (all wound)
+|John Platter
+|C F vA C vE G C
+|-
+! rowspan="2" |classical guitar
 |25.5"
 |^^F
-|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40<br>high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77
+|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40 48<br>high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77
-|
+|Kite
-|high 3: Savarez KF<br>low 4: Silverwound
+|high 3: Savarez KF<br>low 5: Silverwound
+|-
+| style="text-align:center;" |650mm
+|C
+| style="text-align:left;" |29 33 41p 26w 31 33 40 52
+|John Platter
+|C F vA C vE G C vE
 |}
+== Fretboard removal ==
+<u>'''IMPORTANT'''</u>: Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.
+If the old fretboard is glued on, apply heat and use a putty knife. Go very slowly to avoid damaging the neck. The whole process often takes an hour or two.
+If the old fretboard is epoxied on, you may prefer to grind it off using a router. Remove all the old frets first. For an electric, remove the neck from the body first.
 ==Fretboard placement ==
-When building a guitar, the bridge is positioned relative to the fretboard. When converting a guitar, it's crucial to place the fretboard accurately relative to the bridge. This process is like saddle compensation, but instead of moving the saddle points back and forth, one moves the entire fretboard back and forth.
+When building a guitar, the bridge/saddle is positioned relative to the fretboard. When converting a guitar, the fretboard is positioned relative to the bridge/saddle. This process is like saddle compensation, but instead of moving the saddle points back and forth, one moves the entire fretboard back and forth.
-One method: first put the frets on the fretboard. Then clamp it to the neck using narrow wooden blocks that won't interfere with the strings. Then string it up, test the intonation, and adjust the fretboard placement as needed (see below). Finally, mark the correct position, remove the strings, and glue down the fretboard.
+On an electric guitar, the saddle points are adjustable, so the fretboard placement need be only roughly correct. But on an acoustic or classical guitar, it's crucial to place the fretboard accurately.
+When gluing on the fretboard, unless it's an electric, be sure to use locator pins! This is a standard (non-microtonal) luthier practice, search for "fretboard locator pins". With the fretboard clamped onto the neck, drill two (some suggest three or four) 1/16" guide holes through the fretboard and partway into the neck, to position the neck during glue-up. Drill the holes in the fret slots so that the frets will hide the holes. Drill off-center to avoid the truss rod. Drill one hole at the first fret slot and the other near the top of the neck. Do not drill into the body. Unclamp the fretboard and put 1/16" locating pins in the guide holes to position the fretboard exactly. If the fretboard wood is extremely oily (such as padauk wood), first treat it with acetone. Glue the fretboard on using ordinary [[wikipedia:Polyvinyl_acetate|woodworker's glue]]. Once the glue is dry, carefully remove the locator pins. Do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path, then install the frets.
+=== Method #1 ===
+Before removing the old fretboard, check the intonation. Assuming it's on, mark the location of the old (12-equal) 7th fret on both sides of the neck. Do the same with the old 17th fret by putting tape on the guitar body on both sides of the fretboard. We'll be using these 4 guide marks to place the new (41-equal) fretboard.
+If the intonation is off, use a formula to convert the error in cents to an error in millimeters or inches. This formula is given in the section below on saddle compensation. We're doing saddle compensation in reverse: rather than moving the saddle points, we're moving the guide marks.
+Remove the old fretboard. Use the guide marks to position the new fretboard, which at this point has no frets in it. The new 12th fret slot will be only 2.5¢ closer to the soundhole than the old 7th fret. And the new 29th fret slot will be 2.5¢ further from the soundhole than the old 17th fret. That 2.5¢ distance will be almost twice as large for the new 12th fret as for the new 29th fret (almost twice because a 34\41 minor 7th is almost an octave). So eyeball the marks and the fret slots until it looks right on both sides of the neck/body.
+=== Method #2 ===
+Remove the old fretboard. Put the frets on the new fretboard. Then clamp it to the neck using narrow wooden blocks that won't interfere with the strings. Then string it up, test the intonation, and adjust the fretboard placement as needed (see below). Finally, mark the correct position, remove the strings, and glue down the fretboard.
 But many luthiers prefer to install the frets after the fretboard is attached, so that they can do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path. If so, only install those frets needed for intonation. After gluing down the fretboard, remove those few frets, level, and then install all the frets.
@@ Line 483: / Line 542: @@
 [[File:Positioning a Kite Guitar fretboard -2.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]
-Always install at least two frets, because the nut might need compensation (see below), and can't be trusted yet. One might use frets 1 and 13 to get a fifth, or frets 0.5 (the a-fret) and 21 to get an octave. Or one might install 3 or 4 frets, for safety. Check the tuning at all the frets and all the strings, using Method #2 below. Then place the fretboard
+Always install at least two frets, because the nut might need compensation (see below), and can't be trusted yet. One might use frets 1 and 13 to get a fifth, or frets 0.5 (the a-fret) and 21 to get an octave. Or one might install 3 or 4 frets, for safety. Check the tuning at all the frets and all the strings, using Method #2 below. Then place the fretboard.
 ==Saddle and nut compensation ==
-Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or nylon, one must file the saddle.
+Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or classical, one must file the saddle. Or one can make the saddle points adjustable. Widen the saddle slot by about 1/8" or 1/4". Cut the saddle into sections, one per string. Shim each saddle section individually in front and/or in back to place it properly.
+[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]
+[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar 2.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]
 ===Short answer===
 For each string, match the 41st fret harmonic exactly with the fretted note, using a tuner. You can also match the 12th fret harmonic with the 12th fret note, which will be 1 octave lower. (To be precise, the fretted note should be half a cent sharper than the harmonic.) Ideally check at both the 12th and 41st frets, and split the difference to get both as in tune as possible.
+You could instead simply check various fretted notes against the tuner. Every 4th note (i.e. every fret marker) should suffice.
 ===Long answer===
@@ Line 2,071: / Line 2,134: @@
 ===Frequencies===
--equal frequencies in Hertz. The anchor note D is tuned to standard A-440 pitch. vA is roughly 432hz, and vvB is roughly the ubiquitous 60hz electrical hum.
+-equal frequencies in Hertz. The anchor note D is tuned to standard A-440 pitch. vA is roughly 432 Hz, and vvB is roughly the ubiquitous 60 Hz electrical hum. (For readers in China or Europe, ^G is roughly 50 Hz.)
 {| class="wikitable"
 !