How to make a Kite Guitar: Difference between revisions

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Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below).

Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below). Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.

==Fret placement==

On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:

On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. (4 not 2 because it's 41 frets per ''double'' octave, which has [[frequency ratio]] 4/1 not 2/1.) For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:

[https://en.xen.wiki/images/5/55/KiteGuitarFret%26DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip KiteGuitarFret&DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip]

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The spreadsheet also has formulas to locate the fret markers aka dots (see the next section).

Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. ~~All~~ of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:

Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. [https://KiteGuitar.com KiteGuitar.com] often has fretboards in stock. Furthermore, all of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:

*[http://kozmguitars.com/ KOZM Guitars] (Oregon)

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|25.5"

|^^F

|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40<br>high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77

|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40 48<br>high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77

|

|high 3: Savarez KF<br>low 4: Silverwound

|high 3: Savarez KF<br>low 5: Silverwound

|}

== Fretboard removal ==

Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.

If the old fretboard is glued on, apply heat and use a putty knife. Go very slowly to avoid damaging the neck. The whole process often takes an hour or two.

If the old fretboard is epoxied on, you may prefer to grind it off using a router. Remove all the old frets first. For an electric, remove the neck from the body first.

==Fretboard placement ==

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On an electric guitar, the saddle points are adjustable, so the fretboard placement need be only roughly correct. But on an acoustic or classical guitar, it's crucial to place the fretboard accurately.

When gluing on the fretboard, unless it's an electric, be sure to use locator pins! This is a standard (non-microtonal) luthier practice, google "fretboard locator pins". With the fretboard clamped onto the neck, drill two (some suggest three or four) 1/16" guide holes through the fretboard and partway into the neck, to position the neck during glue-up. Drill the holes in the fret slots so that the frets will hide the holes. Drill on either side of the fretboard to avoid the truss rod. Drill one hole at the first fret slot and the other near the top of the neck. Do not drill into the body. Unclamp the fretboard and put 1/16" locating pins in the guide holes to position the fretboard exactly. Glue the fretboard on. Once the glue is dry, carefully remove the locator pins. Do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path, then install the frets.

When gluing on the fretboard, unless it's an electric, be sure to use locator pins! This is a standard (non-microtonal) luthier practice, google "fretboard locator pins". With the fretboard clamped onto the neck, drill two (some suggest three or four) 1/16" guide holes through the fretboard and partway into the neck, to position the neck during glue-up. Drill the holes in the fret slots so that the frets will hide the holes. Drill on either side of the fretboard to avoid the truss rod. Drill one hole at the first fret slot and the other near the top of the neck. Do not drill into the body. Unclamp the fretboard and put 1/16" locating pins in the guide holes to position the fretboard exactly. If the fretboard wood is extremely oily (such as padauk wood), first treat it with acetone. Glue the fretboard on using ordinary [[wikipedia:Polyvinyl_acetate|woodworker's glue]]. Once the glue is dry, carefully remove the locator pins. Do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path, then install the frets.

=== Method #1 ===

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==Saddle and nut compensation ==

Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or classical, one must file the saddle.

Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or classical, one must file the saddle. Or one can make the saddle points adjustable. Widen the saddle slot by about 1/8" or 1/4". Cut the saddle into sections, one per string. Shim each saddle section individually in front and/or in back to place it properly.

[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]

[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar 2.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]

===Short answer===

For each string, match the 41st fret harmonic exactly with the fretted note, using a tuner. You can also match the 12th fret harmonic with the 12th fret note, which will be 1 octave lower. (To be precise, the fretted note should be half a cent sharper than the harmonic.) Ideally check at both the 12th and 41st frets, and split the difference to get both as in tune as possible.

You could instead simply check various fretted notes against the tuner. Every 4th note (i.e. every fret marker) should suffice.

===Long answer===

@@ Line 320: / Line 320: @@
 |0.032"
 |}
-Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below).
+Removing the entire fretboard also has the advantage that you can get a pre-slotted computer-cut fretboard fairly cheaply that has extremely accurate slot placement (see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Fret%20Placement|Fret Placement]] below). Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.
 ==Fret placement==
-On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:
+On a standard guitar, the nth fret is SL * (1 - 2^(-n/12)) from the nut, where SL is the scale length. On a Kite guitar, for an even-fret layout, it's SL * (1 - 4^(-n/41)). In other words, simply replace the 12th root of 2 with the 41st root of 4. (4 not 2 because it's 41 frets per ''double'' octave, which has [[frequency ratio]] 4/1 not 2/1.) For the a-fret, use n = 0.5. The b-fret is 1.5, the c-fret is 2.5, etc. Or use this LibreOffice spreadsheet:
 [https://en.xen.wiki/images/5/55/KiteGuitarFret%26DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip KiteGuitarFret&DotPlacementCalculator.ods.zip]
@@ Line 329: / Line 329: @@
 The spreadsheet also has formulas to locate the fret markers aka dots (see the next section).
-Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. All of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:
+Various suppliers can make pre-slotted fingerboards complete with radius, taper and inlays. All you need to do is glue it on and put in the frets. [https://KiteGuitar.com KiteGuitar.com] often has fretboards in stock. Furthermore, all of these suppliers have made Kite guitar fretboards:
 *[http://kozmguitars.com/ KOZM Guitars] (Oregon)
@@ Line 467: / Line 467: @@
 |25.5"
 |^^F
-|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40<br>high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77
+|24.4 26.0 30.3p 24w 28 33 40 48<br>high 3 strings in mm: 62 66 77
 |
-|high 3: Savarez KF<br>low 4: Silverwound
+|high 3: Savarez KF<br>low 5: Silverwound
 |}
+== Fretboard removal ==
+Before removing the old fretboard from an acoustic or classical guitar, see [[How to make a Kite Guitar#Method #1|Fretboard placement Method #1]] below.
+If the old fretboard is glued on, apply heat and use a putty knife. Go very slowly to avoid damaging the neck. The whole process often takes an hour or two.
+If the old fretboard is epoxied on, you may prefer to grind it off using a router. Remove all the old frets first. For an electric, remove the neck from the body first.
 ==Fretboard placement ==
@@ Line 478: / Line 485: @@
 On an electric guitar, the saddle points are adjustable, so the fretboard placement need be only roughly correct. But on an acoustic or classical guitar, it's crucial to place the fretboard accurately.
-When gluing on the fretboard, unless it's an electric, be sure to use locator pins! This is a standard (non-microtonal) luthier practice, google "fretboard locator pins". With the fretboard clamped onto the neck, drill two (some suggest three or four) 1/16" guide holes through the fretboard and partway into the neck, to position the neck during glue-up. Drill the holes in the fret slots so that the frets will hide the holes. Drill on either side of the fretboard to avoid the truss rod. Drill one hole at the first fret slot and the other near the top of the neck. Do not drill into the body. Unclamp the fretboard and put 1/16" locating pins in the guide holes to position the fretboard exactly. Glue the fretboard on. Once the glue is dry, carefully remove the locator pins. Do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path, then install the frets.
+When gluing on the fretboard, unless it's an electric, be sure to use locator pins! This is a standard (non-microtonal) luthier practice, google "fretboard locator pins". With the fretboard clamped onto the neck, drill two (some suggest three or four) 1/16" guide holes through the fretboard and partway into the neck, to position the neck during glue-up. Drill the holes in the fret slots so that the frets will hide the holes. Drill on either side of the fretboard to avoid the truss rod. Drill one hole at the first fret slot and the other near the top of the neck. Do not drill into the body. Unclamp the fretboard and put 1/16" locating pins in the guide holes to position the fretboard exactly. If the fretboard wood is extremely oily (such as padauk wood), first treat it with acetone. Glue the fretboard on using ordinary [[wikipedia:Polyvinyl_acetate|woodworker's glue]]. Once the glue is dry, carefully remove the locator pins. Do one final levelling on the fretboard along each string path, then install the frets.
 === Method #1 ===
@@ Line 500: / Line 507: @@
 ==Saddle and nut compensation ==
-Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or classical, one must file the saddle.
+Since the Kite guitar is so much more in tune than a 12-equal guitar, extra care should be taken with compensation. On an electric guitar, one can simply dial in the correct saddle compensation. On an acoustic or classical, one must file the saddle. Or one can make the saddle points adjustable. Widen the saddle slot by about 1/8" or 1/4". Cut the saddle into sections, one per string. Shim each saddle section individually in front and/or in back to place it properly.
+[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]
+[[File:Closeup of adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar 2.jpg|none|thumb|adjustable saddle points on a classical guitar]]
 ===Short answer===
 For each string, match the 41st fret harmonic exactly with the fretted note, using a tuner. You can also match the 12th fret harmonic with the 12th fret note, which will be 1 octave lower. (To be precise, the fretted note should be half a cent sharper than the harmonic.) Ideally check at both the 12th and 41st frets, and split the difference to get both as in tune as possible.
+You could instead simply check various fretted notes against the tuner. Every 4th note (i.e. every fret marker) should suffice.
 ===Long answer===